Disease Prevention Aquariums
This is probably one of the most important aspects (although a generalized statement) of keeping an aquarium healthy.
To be even stronger, my experience in the maintenance of aquariums, literally, 1000 gave me a unique perspective compared to an amateur pure. What I mean is that I (or my employees) were a lot of customers aquariums only once per week or less, so I could not afford to be sure that all was well with these fish every day (something like the average fan to go every week to one or two weeks off and hoping that everything would be fine).
So I had to search the parameter time in the form of maintaining a healthy aquarium and I could not rely on the aquarium maintenance of many myths that still float in this hobby to keep my customers live fish. Such as the myth of UV sterilization or the quality of many popular brands of fish food. I have made tests on everything from UV sterilization, aquarium electrolytes, redox potential, fish food, filtration, cleaning procedures, cycling aquarium.
What I found is that if all points of disease prevention are practiced, good filtration and maintenance, food fish supply quality (even I am surprised that this day twenty Spirulina Flake is not that well known given the enormous differences that have been feeding the fish food) maintaining electrolyte levels right, a good level of Redox and UV sterilization, had very few losses and many of my newer clients noticed the difference after changing my service. This is not to say that these are essential, but the procedures for prevention of aquarium to keep the healthiest, most colorful, and since the fish will live. I have had many in the forums criticize me for trying to scare the aquarists in need in equipment such as UV sterilizers, however I think it is far from that, everyone should not they all the risks and possible ways to keep the aquarium healthy as possible. Put another way would be dishonest to say someone their little goldfish won at the fair will have no problem in a bowl and do not need anything else? I do not think so. My results speak for themselves themselves.
[1] Clean:
Periodic changes of water quality are very important. By quality I mean no more than clean water for the capture fish and wash the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do partial water changes that disrupt the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is to eliminate organic waste before it can pass completely through the nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and lowering the pH. You also want to de-chlorinate the water so as not to stress the fish or the environment. There are many good products for this: first, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.
Another note regular water changes, which are also important when fish are sick, and before each treatment. These water changes should also include a thorough "cleaning" cup (all sides) to evict the algae that can harbor pathogens of the disease.
[2] Good filtration:
I recommend two filters for redundancy, and never fully pull all media, rather I clarify some of the filter media in aquarium water used to preserve beneficial (Aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal). Sponge filters are a great addition pre filters the bedside, in particular, to improve biological filtration, especially when changing the filter media.
Note that the main function filters to eliminate mechanical and biological waste. If the filter does not perform these basic tasks, it is necessary to change or improve their filters.
If you has a bowl, this task is more difficult, so regular water changes (in a bowl recommend a water change about 2 / 3) and adding products such as Wonder Shells to aid in water quality between changes in water is important
[3] The use of ultraviolet sterilization:
UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial diseases protozoa, fungi y. They also help with properties of oxidation (redox potential) of water and in doing so, the clarity of water. This is not fundamental, however UV Sterilization is a piece of the puzzle disease prevention
[4] Do not overfeed! Also feed on foods that the quality of fish (not brands hyped that dominate the market)
quality of employment-based foods water, no food rich in cereals, meat protein and fats, and soy proteins. Also foods rich in amino acids useless (which make up the protein) added to their nitrogenous waste which in turn will eventually add up to higher nitrates, note that while a big problem, prolonged exposure to High nitrates will weaken fish and less resistance to disease.
Some good brands: HBH, Ocean Nutrition, Blue Lagoon, Sanyu, Hikari, Spirulina 20; Omega. Some brands to avoid: Tetra, Hartz.
[5] See the Water Chemistry:
Such pH, ammonia (0), nitrites (0), nitrates (below 30 ppm), hardness, KH (80 ppm or more, depending on the fish) of the EC Treaty. Note that ammonia is more toxic at pH higher! A round GH 80 ppm provides the calcium needed for proper osmotic processes and healing of infections and wounds.
Calcium, magnesium and electrolytes are often a component Aquarium forget proper health, however, are essential! For more information about this please see this article: "CALCIO, KH, and Magnesium aquarium, How to maintain an adequate KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important. "
As for pH, many aquarists spend much time chasing a "perfect" pH when a stable pH is more important (that I can speak at 1000 I have had aquariums at different pH and other parameters). I've seen Discus (a fish taken from waters often under 6.5) are reproduced in aquariums with a pH above 7.5. What is stress is a stable pH is not therefore a KH good or acid buffer is important. What I found much more important electrolytes and calcium (which also affect redox potential good) mind that what is called ideal pH. The record of my office, were much healthier with a KH of about 50 ppm, a GH around 100 ppm and a redox potential around -300 mV with a pH below 6.5 (for Please note that these numbers just given are for hard, for many fish such as livebearers I kept a much greater KH and GH).
High levels ammonium nitrite and make the fish extremely susceptible to infection and eventually kill fish directly.
Prolonged nitrate levels higher 50 ppm fish growth doubles and decreased resistance of fish.
Nitrates (with redox) are not a problem for fish health in the short term as ammonia is, however, the assertion that the nitrates are not toxic aquarium maintenance is another myth. More than 30 ppm of nitrates has been shown to kill the cephalopods and nitrates over 20 ppm (some studies show even lower) have been shown to cause blue baby syndrome in humans, then why what long-term exposure to increased nitrates not be harmful to fish?
To read the full article, please visit the following address:
href = "http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html" target = "_blank"> "AQUARIUM DISEASE PREVENTION, basic principles of disease prevention in aquariums
"O my tank for the reference article, with links to dozens of subjests aquatic information:
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About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
Full of color! New fish in our 180 Gallon Cichlid aquarium.
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