
Saltwater Fish and basic elements Nano Reef
These basic elements are intended for a marine fish tank (based and Nano Reef) not an advanced marine reef aquarium. A properly configured and maintained saltwater aquarium can be relatively easy to maintain, in fact, sometimes easier for some Freshwater fish such as discus.
These facts and opinions are based on my experience of professional care and maintenance of marine fish (and coral) aquariums for over 27 years with one of the largest aquarium maintenance companies in Los Angeles, California.
NANO REEFS:
Nano Reef much of this basic information is applied. I still recommend a UV sterilizer if it can be fitted to nano reefs (small inner filter as a Via Aqua Inner filter 305 is connected within a compact UV works well)
* Cured live rock is a necessity.
* # 00 a fine sand with the best of ½ "layer of sand on # 3 best works in my opinion, for cleaning and denitrification.
* Changes in water and regular monitoring of water parameters are a necessity (Do not forget to check the alkaline reserve, as well as FW KH). water parameters change more rapidly in an aquarium Nano.
* Two compact light power, change every six months and cleaned regularly in the middle. Should be a day or two actinic and 50/50.
[1] filter, good filtration is a need for a successful marine aquarium. There are many different filters available as well.
Boat filters are good for capacity, but factories can become Nitrate is not washed regularly. I do not recommend Fluval due to poor driver design. Via Aqua. Eheim, Jeboo, and Magnum are the ones I recommend.
Wet / Dry filters are good, but are usually poor mechanical filters. The media bio ball there also must be rinsed regularly in chlorinated water de-to prevent the accumulation of organic matter, increased nitrates.
Sump systems with live rock, plants and sponge filters work well. The rock Live is great for aerobic filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal) and anaerobic filtration (nitrate removal). Live plants and green algae are good for fixing nitrogen and phosphate removal. The sponge filter is easy to clean filter and aerobic bio-mechanical filter.
Regarding live rock, I recommend its use. Make sure you are cured, many stores sell live rock right after about them, and this does not clear up the rock. The rock hits stores wrapped in newspaper and mostly dead by this time, it takes up to 6 weeks to heal completely rock. Fully cured live rock has the advantage of containing aerobic and anaerobic bacteria, the afternoon helps convert nitrates to nitrogen harmlessly released into the atmosphere. Curing rock Live it also contains many "creatures", many of which are interesting and beneficial. You can also create your own with high carbonate rock calcium, coral skeletons or even killed by their inclusion in the curing live rock sound for a couple of months in a healthy aquarium (reef set ups are best for this.) It is important to use a very porous rock's wealth of live rock
Expects to return filters are very limited, but can also be used, especially if combined with other bio filters. Internal filters are also limited, but again are good combined with others.
Ecosystem mud filtration is effective for nitrate removal (due to the presence of anaerobic bacteria colonies), which are much simpler to use than a protein skimmer in my opinion (Which I believe are sold for aquarium fish).
Unfortunately there are many shops pushing these systems as the end all of the leak, and are not. They are a much of a system, but should not be the only part. Good mechanical, other types of biological filtration, and filtration are also particularly important germicide.
More on Filtration removal of nitrates;
(A) As mentioned above, filter mud can be very useful for the removal nitrates, you can do a simple operation with a filter head of the bed or a sump tank. (With the head of the bed should be placed in the media fine nylon mesh bags or filter so as not to cause damage to the impeller, also keep bags out of the area of high flow filter). [1] First use a layer 2 cm of gravel # 3 on the top. [2] After 5 cm of sand # 00. [3] Then you can make your own mulm anaerobic topsoil, topsoil rinse soil in a solution of bleach to 10 / 1, then rinse again until clean (you can add a de-chlorinator to remove bleach). This will sink to the bottom of a layer about 2 cm thick.
(B) Also as mentioned above, a large amount of cured live rock is extremely useful for Nitrate removal
(C) plants or green algae (eg Caulerpa) in the aquarium or shelter.
(D) Pre-filters such as ATIS 'Max Filter "on intake filter, which are easy to rinse and remove organic matter before it can go through the nitrogen cycle.
(E) protein skimmers
(F) Metal Halide lighting. I know this seems off topic, but I've noticed that the metal halide lighting helps with the levels of nitrates, even when other filters are poor. I have no scientific proof, but I think the redox potential (350 mV) helps maintain this view has much to do with it.
Filter redundancy is also important, as filters / pumps can be damaged. Extra filters also increase the biological and mechanical filtration. An economical combination would be a sponge filter, internal filter, and a lock on the back (power filter).
For more information on filtration, please visit this website: target = "_blank"> "Aquarium filtration"
[2] Lighting; A daylight bulb 10,000 K is a start, the better would be a day 50/50 / 420nm actinic bulb, or better yet, would be one of each.
[3] test kits, an ammonia nitrites, nitrates, pH, KH and alkalinity () test kit is very important.
[4] Water Chemistry; Start with a good sea salt and mixed with a weight of from 1.019 to 1.021 for fish.
Add trace elements and buffer the aquarium. Seachem makes an excellent product called Coral Calcium keeps KH, adds biographies polygluconate available calcium complex. Many products available do not provide calcium and magnesium (as Kalkwasser), and both are needed together for the right chemistry and Health fish. It should be noted that unlike freshwater fish absorb the water around them, marine fish drink water constantly, which affects their internal composition body chemistry to the surrounding water.
Keep ammonia and nitrite 0, pH 8.2-8.4, KH 200 ppm, nitrates below 20 ppm. Change the water regularly with a vacuum gravel, especially in areas of accumulation of waste, this will help keep down the nitrates.
[5] UV sterilization, UV sterilizers are in my opinion, not essential, but very important. UV Sterilizers help with disease prevention and also helps to maintain an adequate redox potential oxidation properties (Of water). The redox potential is often overlooked by many aquarists both SW and FW. For more information, please see my article on " target = "_blank"> aquarium UV sterilization and how it works "
[6] Fish and adequate food, no more than a crowd marine aquarium. The amount of fish depends on the surface of the aquarium and the type of fish. My article "Basics of Aquarius" addresses this subject. Feed your fish marine according to the type of food they eat naturally in nature. Water-based foods such as HBH Marine Flake or Spirulina 20 Flake fish food are good generic spikes angels, clown fish, etc. (The angels also need a sponge in your diet).
This is a basic item for more information Please check out this great article with more resources, images and marine information: target = "_blank"> "AQUARIUM SALTWATER BASICS, Fisheries and Nano-Reef
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About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Information.html
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