
Aquarium Test Equipment, for what it is used and the Order of Importance of the parameters of water in freshwater aquariums and saltwater
It is always best have so many different test kits can afford (which apply to either freshwater or saltwater
I prefer buying my test kits separately as master proof Duplicate test kits do not need (high range and low pH range) and set aside the need as KH and GH, or possibly phosphate, calcium, or Redox
Here is a list FRESHWATER test kits, which are in favor and in order of importance:
[1] target = "_blank"> test kit ammonia Ammonia is very toxic even at low levels, should remain at or near 0. ammonia kits test can not distinguish between the highly toxic ammonia (NH4) and only slightly toxic ammonia (NH3). Products such as First, Ammolock and NH4 to become Amquel NH3, so its level of toxic ammonia is not proved accurate after using one of these products. Ammonia (NH3) will become NH4 at higher pH levels why high levels of ammonia according to the test are much more toxic at higher pH.
[2] kH and GH test kit, you will notice that put this over a pH test kit, this due to the fact that a poor kH do maintain a stable pH near impossible. In addition to calcium (as tested in GH) is important for the health of the fish that many aquarists to credit (see my article: CALCIUM, KH, and magnesium in aquariums; How to maintain an adequate KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important).
* You want to maintain a KH and GH about 60 ppm (about 2.3 dKH and DGH) for Discus, Rams, Cardinals, and other Amazon fish.
* A KH and GH of 80 and 100 of tropical fish, including most Gouramis, Bettas, Angelfish, EC.
* A KH and GH of 100-200 for goldfish, mollies, Plattier, Guppies, ECT.
* A KH and GH of more than 200 lakes in the Rift African cichlids and brackish water fish such as monkeys and excreta.
[3] pH high-end or low-end test equipment, you only need one or the other based on the type of aquarium keeping.
Do not stress about being precise about pH, as well as many aquarists go WAY overboard here! For Disco example generally do better around 6.5, however, know that Discus breeders use of water with a pH of 7.0
I recommend a high-end Kit Testing of Goldfish and viviparous, which should have a pH of about 7.5 to 7.8 target. African Cichlid Rift should have a pH above 8.0
I recommend a low range test kit for freshwater fish community at large (6.8 to 7.4) or fish of the Amazon River (section 6.8)
[4] The team nitrate tests, this test is important to know when to change the water (along with KH) and how well your overall long-term health of the deposit is gone. The Nitrates also show you how well your plants consume nutrients nitrogen, and if you are aspiring to the aquarium properly, such as the elimination of all the mulm. Some filters, such as under gravel in particular, and wet and dry canister filters can become a nitrate factory if not handled properly.
For most freshwater fish nitrate level below 40 ppm is correct or above 15 ppm for planted tanks.
[4] Nitrite Test Kit, you will Finally I put out what not, because it is not important, only that if the budget is a concern or time for testing is a factor, this ammonia parameter often reflected in a matter of hours or days. Nitrite should be at or near 0.
[5] phosphate test equipment is usually only necessary in planted tanks large amounts of "ferts (fertilizers) are added or if you have uncontrollable algae growth. This test kit is usually more important to the ponds where the rainwater can wash the residue with a high phosphate content in the pond.
Your aquarium (or pond) must have phosphate levels as close to 0 as possible.
[6] Redox meter water usually this parameter will of itself as long as they perform maintenance aquarium itself, with changes Regular water with ionized water properly, to maintain a level of GH and KH of at least 50 ppm (80 ppm I think better). That said, this is a good parameter to check if you is having problems with cyanobacteria (blue green algae) or if you have unexplained problems and every other test is successful (unless they have an unknown disease.) I recommend every fan at least familiar with the Redox Potential, here is an in-depth article on aquarium Redox: target = "_blank"> "The Aquariums redox potential (and ponds) and how it relates to proper aquatic health." Use of methylene blue according to the standard dose for aquarium water (to remove the water for this test), and is bright blue, is likely to have a positive effect Redox. If the color fades at all (the smallest) is likely a result of the reduction. This evidence in no way replaces the redox meter accuracy, but it is a simple way to get a handle on your health aquarium Redox.
Its redox aquarium should be around 300 mV.
MARINE;
The list is still similar and I will ignore the descriptions have in common with test kits of fresh water.
[1] The ammonia test kit, which should be 0 as in FW
[2] KH test kit, you do not need a GH test kit saltwater. KH (or as it is called alkalinity in marine aquaria) must be more than 240 ppm (13 dKH)
[3] Test Kit pH-range, the pH should be between 8.2 to 8.4
[4] hydrometer, the instrument tests the specific gravity of aquarium water (in Simply put, the amount of sales). There are two types, floating glass hydrometers, which are more fragile, but also more accurate or needle hydrometer you simply fill with water. It is important to both types of hydrometers to clean these with white vinegar (rinse well) to prevent the buildup of hard water which in turn cause inaccurate readings.
[4] The nitrate test kit, nitrates are the best under 40 years to aquariums and marine fish under 20 years (let alone if possible) for reef aquariums
[5] calcium test kit, which takes the place of GH test kit freshwater.
Calcium is important for ALL marine life (this includes fresh water, which is often sadly overlooked), but it is absolutely essential for the growth of corals in aquariums marine. Bio-availability is also essential, Mar Chem polygluconate Coral Calcium is probably one of the best, most bioavailable calcium supplements available for aquariums marine.
Its marine calcium levels should be between 400 and 450 ppm
[6] The nitrite test kit, which should be 0 as in FW
[7] Magnesium Test Kit, Magnesium is an essential part of chlorophyll, which is necessary for photosynthesis, plants, including algae and corals. Maintain adequate concentration of magnesium is very important and is indirectly responsible for the rapid growth of coral and calcareous algae, according to the proper maintenance calcium and alkalinity figures possible. Magnesium is depleted by algae and excessive use of Kalkwasser. Magnesium is what binds the calcium carbonate in the solution, if the levels are low calcium levels can also be used falls. Poor choices of marine buffers can exasperate the problem further, the reason we STRONGLY recommend Mar Chem Marine Buffer to adjust the alkalinity in marine water (and even freshwater aquariums) as this product is magnesium, calcium and sodium bicarbonate in the proportions appropriate.
Magnesium levels in the marine aquarium should be between 1200 and 1400 ppm.
[8] Redox meter, as in fresh water, I recommend -300 mV, except Redox is more important in marine aquariums.
[9] Phosphate Test Kit, as in fresh water, this is about 0. High levels of phosphate in the marine aquarium can wreak havoc on the health and living coral growth (phosphates can block the absorption of important minerals)
For the full article, icluding photos and more links, please visit the resource box below.
About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
http://aquarium-answers.blogspot.com/2007/02/aquarium-test-kits.html
Nitrite: How It Affects Our Reef System & What We Can Do About It
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