aquarium 20 gal

Marine Aquarium

Marine fishkeeping history

The first salt water tank Venetian glass jars, where Romans kept anemones outside but these systems were very short. The first salt water aquarium staff began a large scale in the 1950's, from the rectangular glass aquaria base (usually 20 gallon), still popular today. Bleaching of coral, along with a substrate of coarse crushed coral was the standard. Algae, including the types of benefits, such as coralline algae, were viewed negatively and were usually removed. The clean tank, was considered sterile as the healthiest.

During the early days of marine aquaria, saltwater was collected from local beaches. Saltwater naturally contains many unwanted organisms and pollutants. Aquarium of the literature of the period indicate that marine fish most commonly used were the percula clownfish, Sergeant large castanets, small, brackish pufferfish and scats, blennies jewelry, and blue damsels. Aquariums were equipped with large air compressors, and were heavily aerated and filtered (primarily with gravel filters, a norm for some time.)

A growing number of fans to experience the inconvenience of collecting natural sea water and the simultaneous development of analytical chemistry techniques to investigate the composition taken chemistry of seawater. synthetic salts were developed to reproduce the chemical environment of the tropical oceans, including trace elements and salts. This advance popular marine aquarium in areas without access to drinking water from the sea.

Air driven protein skimmers, against current and reliable heaters Submersible Electric invented in Germany. Several advances in the filtration include drip and hang-on filters, which allows both a more natural balance in the environment aquarium. The advancement of fluorescent lighting technologies to provide higher performance, along with metal halide lighting, tanks allowed reef first, making it possible to keep corals and invertebrates without natural sunlight.

more chemical tests aquarists efficient elucidated the chemical properties of aquariums. In the 1980's, bio-based knowledge of how to maintain a marine environment artificial brought more successful and widespread marine fishkeeping.

Modern fishkeeping

The Marine aquarium components

The main components are an aquarium, usually made of glass or acrylic, filtration, lighting, and an aquarium heater. Marine aquariums can range in size from less than 80 liters (<20 gal) to more than 1,200 liters (300 gal). small volumes are more difficult to maintain due to the rapid changes in water chemistry. The majority of saltwater aquariums are between 160 and 400 liters (40 and 100 U.S. gallons).

Nano reef aquarium kept at home

Types of marine aquarium

Marine aquarists typically divide saltwater aquariums into those housing fish only, the housing fish with live rock, and designed primarily for corals and other invertebrates house (also known as reef aquariums.) Many fans of fish also divided the types of saltwater tanks on the basis of water temperature in which are maintained.

Tropical marine

The most common type of fish tank salt water tank tropical marine hosts of tropical marine animals. Usually kept between 24-28 degrees Celsius (76 to 82 F), these tanks are tropical reef tanks and as a fish-only tanks. These deposits tend to have a low concentration of microscopic plankton and other food eaten by filter feeders. Most of the cattle of these tanks are purchased through commercial media.

Temperate sea (cold-water marine)

A maritime temperate aquarium

One of the more obscure types of fish tanks, tank of cold sea water, fish have temperate, with temperatures ranging from 10 to 24 degrees Celsius (5075 F). While most of these tanks are not as aesthetically pleasing as their tropical counterparts, colorful species such as the dahlia anemones and adorned cowfish be found. However, the majority of cold-water fish are gray or opaque. Most colored species found in the western Pacific. These deposits also tend to require extra skill to maintain.

Since cold water cnidarians are cold-water corals and rare only occur at great depths, the fans are largely confined to fish and crustaceans and molluscs. Since there are very few cold-water fish commercially available, fans often have to purchase physical copies. The most common way of doing is by dragging or fence. Unlike trade in tropical fish available, their behavior patterns and the tank are well documented compatibility, cold water fish ichthyology intensive local knowledge to maintain.

Many warm-water fish have specific requirements local diet, while others, like Tautog (blackfish), will eat almost any crustacean or frozen foods. The cauldron should not be maintained with the crabs and mollusks, whereas other fish, such as cracker oyster toadfish, will do very well with any fish that is not small enough to fit in your mouth. Because it is as located a hobby, not many people go the route of local tanks. However, they are more profitable than reef tanks, cheaper and easier to maintain, and more resistant fish. Most fans start from cold water to a young age, and experience is needed before success can be measured compatibility of fish in your area. [Citation needed]

Live rock

Main article: rock vivo

Live rock is rock that has been at sea, composed of limestone and decomposing coral skeleton, usually around a coral reef, such as those around Fiji, and is usually covered with beneficial algae, invertebrates, coral and small and bacteria that are desirable in the aquarium. Some examples of the microfauna commonly found in live rock are crabs, snails, feather dusters, sea stars, sea stars, limpets, abalone, and a hedgehog occasional sea, sea anemone, coral and sea sponges. Also, if the fan is bad luck, a galley. Bristleworms are also common, most of which although unattractive, are not harmful and are useful scavengers, and some species can be pests, however. The addition of live rock is one of the best ways to ensure a healthy aquarium, as the rock provides a buffer to maintain the high pH (8.0 to 8.3), alkalinity, and acid-neutralizing capacity. Alkalinity is often known by a rather confusing term "carbonate hardness", or KH. This is usually measured in "degrees" (dKH) or meq / L.

The microfauna found on the rock are detritivores and herbivores (they eat algae and fish waste), and provide fish with a natural, attractive shelter. Live rock usually arrives online distributor of "no cure", and must be quarantined in a separate tank while undergoing the process of curing, that is the inevitable decline of some of the inhabitants of the rock and the subsequent production of undesirable ammonia and nitrite. Live rock is already cured is available in most pet stores that are adapted to salt water. Live sand is similar to the rock and is equally desirable.

Filtration

A new sump with three compartments including a protein skimmer

Main article: Filter (aquarium)

In general, marine aquariums have more complex filtration requirements than most freshwater aquariums. The various components frequently include Wet and dry filters and protein skimmers. protein skimmers are devices that remove compounds before organic degradation, and are also very useful in marine aquariums. Protein skimming is also used in the popular Berlin method based on the rock, and periodic partial water changes to degrade and remove waste products. The Berlin method has large amounts of live rock that included in the aquarium. The rule of thumb is 1 / 2 – £ 1 per 1 U.S. gallon (0.2 to 0.4 kg per 4 liters).

Some marine aquariums also include a shelter and / or sink. Refugiums are small containers, or aquariums hidden behind or beneath the main aquarium and connected to it through a water pump. Refugiums have become very popular among aquarists, and that can be used for various purposes, such as adding water volume or performance a site free fish for biological filtration in live rock and / or bed of sand. free refugiums fish are host to the population of copepods, amphipods, isopods and other zooplankton. The sump may contain a number of compartments, each with its own filtration material. Often, heaters, thermostats, and skimmers protein are placed in the sink.

Lighting

A metal halide DIY chandelier

Regular cyclical lighting is used in aquariums to simulate day and night. This is beneficial for fish and invertebrates since it establishes a routine, allowed to rest, and makes them feel safer. The lighting used varies depending on the inhabitants of aquarium. Usually, the type of lighting for aquariums with fish only is regarded as unimportant. In aquariums with invertebrates, however, when the growth of algae (Both free-living algae and symbiotic) is desired, more intense lighting is needed. There are many types of lights available: some common types are fluorescent fluorescent VHO (Very High Output), compact fluorescent, LED and metal halide. Actinic lights produce a deep blue spectrum designed to simulate the dominant wavelength light a few feet below the ocean surface.

Many different sources make different claims about what kind of system lighting is best. In reality, each technology or variant has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most primitive lighting source is natural sunlight. This is effective only in areas close to Ecuador, because the intensity of sunlight is greater there. The efficient use of natural sunlight requires complex planning and as such, this method applies only to the largest reef systems.

The next step in technology is lamps incandescent. It is a waste of energy, producing between 15 and 30 lumens per watt of power (maximum of 683 lumens per watt for an ideal light source). standard fluorescent lamps offer a great improvement over incandescent bulbs. There are better available in color temperatures of fluorescent tubes are more suitable aquarium than the normal bulb. They are also more efficient, averaging 90 to 95 lumens per watt. The disadvantage of regular fluorescent lights is that they do not have the strength to penetrate deeper into the aquarium.

There are several variations of fluorescent technology improves. The main are very high output (VHO), power compact fluorescent (PC), and T-5 High Output (HO). Fluorescent lamps are VHO lamps operate at levels higher power, usually about three times the standard power for a given focal length. They have the advantage of producing high light, but most bulbs limiting diameter reflector efficiency. PC lighting is also high-power illumination fluorescence, but the bulbs are bent to put more tubes in a given space. The output of PC lamps reflector are reduced by inefficient designs.

VHO and PC bulbs are also quite expensive to replace. T-5 HO lamps are the newest variant of fluorescent lights. They are run at power levels slightly higher than standard fluorescent lamps, but become much thinner. This allows more efficient reflector designs that receives more light in the aquarium. Because of this, higher quality T-5 systems are often equal to or greater the output VHO or equivalent compact fluorescent lighting fixtures. All types of fluorescent lamps offer the same efficiency in lumens per watt, is the the bulb and reflector that makes their different overall output.

Halogen lights are the next level of fluorescent technology. metal halide lamps produce about 90 to 100 lumens per watt. This is about the same as fluorescent. The improved metal halide is that this output focus the light in a very small space, while fluorescent lights illuminate the aquarium evenly over. This is often referred to as the light source point, and that's what domino effect makes the visual so many advanced aquarium setups. This concentration of light output intensity increases, allowing halide lamps metal to obtain a large amount of light that even the lowest levels of most aquariums. metal halide lamps are available in many color temperatures , From 6500 K to 20,000 K, although up to 50,000 K bulbs are occasionally found. The disadvantages of metal halide lighting are cost and heat production.

Most metal halide fixtures are more than double the price of an equivalent power fluorescent although prices have started to decline in recent years. halide lamps concentrate heat and light output. The surface of a lamp operating is hot enough to cause second or third degree burns instantly, so this lighting technology should be used with caution. The heat also can heat the tank to unacceptable levels, often requires the use of a refrigerator. The most recent addition to the list of aquarium lighting technology is lighting LED. These have the potential to be much more efficient than any other technology, but have not yet become so due to problems of heat dissipation. LEDs have the advantage of point source illumination, but also are fully adjustable at any power level. This allows for more advanced lighting schedules, even the simulation of cloud cover. Until now, LEDs have found a use primarily as lunar illumination.

In considering lighting of an aquarium, there are generally two factors to consider: the temperature and the power of color. Depending on the type of lighting (fluorescent lamps, is ie, metal halide, etc) the power of the emitted light can vary considerably, from tens of watts to several hundred watts in a lighting system. Power while it is not indicative of color, is equivalent to the energy and essentially determines how bright the light will shine. Due to the scattering of light in water tank the deeper, the more powerful lighting needed. The color temperature, measured in degrees Kelvin (although slightly unrepresentively) refers to the color the light emitted by the lamp and is based on the concept of black body radiation. Sunlight has a color temperature of approximately 5900 K and lighting systems with color temperatures> 5000 K tend to be better for growing plants, both in the marine environment and freshwater. 10000 K light appears blue-white color and emphasizes in the coloration of fish and corals. Further up the spectrum there are 14,000 K and 20,000 K bulbs that produce a deep blue color that mimic the lighting conditions submarines, creating an optimal environment for invertebrates and present of cattle.

Heating

Most marine aquarium inhabitants are endemic to tropical reefs and waters in Africa, Southeast Asia and the Red Sea. marine aquarium temperatures should mimic the natural environment of the people and keeps most commonly 23-28 degrees Celsius (73 to 82 F). In regions where the ambient temperature is below the desired temperature aquarium this usually requires the use of an aquarium heater. In some areas the temperature exceeds the desired temperature and cooling devices, known as "Coolers" are used to cool the aquarium water.

Waterproof

aquarists common marine test the water in the aquarium for a variety of chemical indicators of water quality. These include:

Specific gravity a relative measure of the density of water, is normally maintained between 1,020 and 1,024 in aquariums with fish only, and 1.023 and 1.026 for aquariums containing invertebrates. Salinity therefore, between 28 and PPT of 35 years, with the highest values are beneficial in advanced reef systems. Because salinity is, by definition, directly related to specific gravity, both can be tested with an inexpensive hydrometer or refractometer.

pH should be maintained between 8.1 and 8.3. This can be lifted with an agent on the market through a buffer or calcium-rich substrates. carbonate hardness (KH) should be between 8 and 12 degrees carbonate hardness. A calcium reactor calibration can help keep the pH and carbonate hardness. The use of purified water from a reverse osmosis / deionization (RO / DI) unit can prevent KH and pH levels.

The nitrogen cycle refers to the conversion of toxic ammonia to nitrite and nitrate, finally. While fish waste (urine and feces) and ammonia decomposition of releases, most ammonia released (Approximately 60%) both in marine aquariums and freshwater is excreted directly into the water "fish gills. Biologicals (bacteria) becomes nitrification ammonia, nitrite ion, NO2-, and then nitrate ion, NO3-. Nitrate is easily absorbed and assimilated by algae and hermatypic corals. Some of nitrate becomes through an anaerobic bacterial process free nitrogen, but this process is very difficult to maintain. In the recent past, most nitrate, which is less toxic to fish and most invertebrates nitrite, accumulated in the water until physically removed by a water change. However, many aquarists Marines are now employing the use of a special section of the tank or tank completely separate, so-called "sanctuary." A shelter is, as its name implies, is a protected area that water shares with the primary, or the display tank. Refugiums usually contain a deep bed of sand to anoxic zones to develop them where anaerobic bacteria can convert nitrate to nitrogen gas, a useful means of removing nitrates. Several types of algae can be grown and harvested from the shelter as an alternative means of nitrate export. As refugiums become more common in marine aquariums, nitrate levels are easily manageable, even for novice amateur. Ammonia and nitrite should be checked regularly and any detectable level (ie above 0 ppm) may be indicative of a problem. Nitrates should not exceed 2 ppm in reef tanks, or 20 ppm in fish-only tanks. Sometimes it is acceptable to have a small amount of nitrate accumulation, as Some animals, especially fish, are quite tolerant of nitrate. Most corals, while able to assimilate nitrate, can not be expected to survive, much less thrive, with high concentrations of nitrates.

Other evidence suggests include calcium carbonate alkalinity, magnesium, and other trace elements. It is often beneficial (and necessary) for the amateur to the investigation of water chemistry for the specific organism that is desired.

Acclimatization

Acclimatization is a process that takes place when adding life a new marine aquarium, especially for invertebrates, which lack osmoregulation. This process slowly introduces the bodies of water composition of the new environment, prevention of shocks stemming from sudden changes in water chemistry. There are several different methods to do this, including the use of a drip line, or a cup measure or other device to slowly mix water from the aquarium tank into a container with the new animal.

Water changes

Water changes are a basic element of good salt water maintenance. Larger (approximately 200 gallons) aquarium is much more stable and have no water changes to take place if the nitrogen cycle has fully consolidated in the tank, although this is a controversial statement among aquarists. Water changes are used to maintain the balance of calcium, alkalinity and magnesium carbonate, which are rapidly depleted in a reef aquarium, while maintaining the levels of other trace elements and the removal of toxic solutes that can accumulate from many different sources and can not be removed by methods including advanced filtering. Supplements are necessary (Such as calcium) to regular water changes alone are not capable of maintaining appropriate levels, including calcium and magnesium carbonate. Water changes involves remove a fraction of the total volume of the aquarium, replacing that water with new salt water pre-mixed. Pre-mixed salt water has no chlorine and / or a dechloraminatedypically additive such as bisulfite or through filtering. Water should be brought to the same temperature, if more than 5% change is happening. The salinity must match the aquarium, or dosed very slowly if the change in salinity. Senior seawater and aeration (for example, in a bucket with a powerhead or airstone) recommended as good practice to allow the pH to stabilize.

replacement water must be of the same source as the aquarium, already case of reverse osmosis (RO), deionized (DI), distilled water or a municipal source, to avoid drastic changes in water chemistry. Where is substitution of a mixture of salt to tap water with a mixture of salt-based reverse osmosis replacement water should be added slowly over several hours to avoid sending the aquarium's inhabitants in a state of osmotic shock. However, large water changes is not recommended anyway in ordinary circumstances, so it is really irrelevant. Municipal or tap water is not recommended for a marine aquarium as they often contain high levels of nitrates, phosphates and silicates and other dissolved solids feeding nuisance growth of algae, especially diatoms, which appears as a rust-colored dust and algae growing in excess of silicates present in all tap water. Filtered water by a four-stage process including mechanical carbon, reverse osmosis, and ionizing components recommended as it may provide the easiest route to water absolutely pure. Fourth and fifth stage RO / DI filtration units can be obtained for just $ 100 and are a cost effective means to convert tap water into usable water in an aquarium ocean.

Conservation

Almost all species present in marine water at this time are caught in the wild, although tank raised specimens are becoming increasingly common as a viable alternative. Only a few species as clown fish are captive bred on a commercial scale. collection is much in Indonesia and the Philippines, where the use of collection methods of cyanide and other destructive while discouraged, is unfortunately common. Most rock is also harvested in the wild, and the recent restrictions on this crop in Florida have caused A change to Fiji rock and aquaculture. natural rock, because it is created by the coral polyps, for many years if not centuries, to form, and is a vital habitat for a numerous marine species, so a commercial scale harvesting of natural rock has been criticized by conservationists. In addition, many species of animals sold fans have very specific dietary and habitat requirements that can not be satisfied by the fans (eg wrasses Labroides genre, idol Moor), which animals almost inevitably die quickly and have significantly reduced lifespan compared to wild specimens. Often these specific environmental conditions cause ill-housed lifestock color and appearance of being poor. These problems are often minimized by individuals and organizations with an interest financial trade. Fans who support conservation should buy only certified fish net (but ensure the legitimacy of such claims can be difficult) or captive bred fish and corals for breeding and to support legitimate efforts to conserve coral reefs. Most corals can be "eliminated", whereby a portion of a larger coral in captivity is separated and then can be lifted in a single sample, allowing the propagation of corals in the National Aquarium, the trade of fragments (ie fragments) offers a fantastic opportunity for marine aquarists for corals new and unique while limiting the impact on the environment. Rare and those without a history of success in captivity should be avoided.

Business address

Several companies have brought a commercial front to fishkeeping, perhaps the biggest is Marineland, Inc. The advent of large scale commercial operations focused on breeding large numbers of samples, marine aquarium has become much more widespread than ever. Such once the largest outdoor marine aquarium is the cost of initial installation. A U.S. gallon 100 (400 L) coral reef aquarium full of equipment may cost more U.S. $ 2,500. Apart from the difficulty, this is an important factor as to why freshwater fishkeeping is still so widespread compared to its counterpart ocean.

References and further reading

Advanced Marine Aquarium Techniques by Jay Hemdale

The Marina awareness Aquarist by Robert Fenner

Invertebrates: A Quick Reference Guide, Julian spring

Corals: A Quick Reference Guide by Julian spring

Reef Invertebrates: An Essential Guide to the selection, care and support, by Anthony Calfo and Robert Fenner

Aquarium Corals: Selection, Livestock and Natural History by Eric H. Borneman.

Natural Reef Aquariums: Simplified methods to create a microcosm of life salt water, by John H. Tullock

External Links

Pets: Fish and Aquaria: Marine at the Open Project Directory

RTAW Reefpedia, a wiki maintained by Reef Keeping Marine Aquarium Societies of Australia

Protein Skimmer Information, a site with information, specs, reviews and plans for DIY protein skimmers

Temperate Marine Information, a site providing information and resource of cold water to the hobbyist marine aquarium

Aquarium and aquarium hobby

Types

Freshwater aquarium marine aquarium saltwater aquarium tank reef aquarium biotope Community

Aquarium equipment and furniture

Berlin Filter Method skimmer deep sand bed reactor heater calcium Refuge marsh wooden airstone rock substrate Driftwood aquarium fish fishcam Aquarium lighting feeder

Fish terms

Hardy fish hatched fish eat algae bottom feeder fish, cold water fish tropical fish Pintado

Fish for human consumption

Flake fish food feeder brine shrimp Bloodworms Daphnia Tubifex tubifex infusoria

Playlists

List of aquarium fish species List of freshwater aquarium plant species freshwater list of species of freshwater invertebrates Marine aquarium fish aquarium List of species of aquarium fish species salt water aquarium diseases List

Other terms

Reef safe triggers spawning Landscaping MacQuarium Bath Treatment

Aquarium magazines

Fishkeeping Tropical Fish Hobbyist Koi practice Aquarium Fish International

People

Takashi Julian Herbert R. Amano Axelrod springs

Aquarium related companies

EHEIM Sera Tetra Hagen

Categories: FishkeepingHidden Categories: Articles needing additional references from July 2007 | All Articles with unsourced statements | All articles with statements without source | Items without source statements December 2008 | Articles containing video clips

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